The Vinsetta Grill, located on Woodward Avenue in Royal Oak, is a classic neighborhood restaurant. (Donna Terek / The Detroit News)
You might think that because high-profile restaurant designer Ron Rea recently gave this long-standing Royal Oak spot a mini-makeover, it is trying to be trendy.
Nothing could be further from the truth.
Vinsetta Grill, run by Mike Papa and his son Jason, is a quintessential neighborhood spot that happens to be in a highly visible location on busy Woodward Avenue.
Vinsetta Grill, run by Mike Papa and his son Jason, is a quintessential neighborhood spot that happens to be in a highly visible location on busy Woodward Avenue.
It's true that Rea has put a little sheen on the woodsy spot -- note the colorful stained-glass lamps and the handsomely refurbished bar -- but his touches haven't really changed it, only enhanced what was already there.
The high-backed upholstered booths still offer quiet havens for conversation, and there's a simple, craftsman-style look to the room, contributed by rich, dark wood, geometric wall sconces and a downplayed color scheme.
Don't expect esoteric ingredients or preparations. The menu focuses on tried-and-true dishes from build-your-own burgers to fried or grilled jumbo shrimp, barbecued chicken and the house specialty -- baby back ribs, the kind that can be nibbled without making a mess of shirt fronts or table tops.
The baby backs are tender, subtly sauced and almost dainty. For those who want ribs with more heft, there are also other styles -- beef ribs and St. Louis spareribs, either sweet or peppery-hot.
Side dishes -- two of which come with entrees -- range from sweet potato fries and ranch-style beans to coleslaw and vegetable du jour, and on one occasion beautifully fresh green beans.
About those burgers: Each table has a five-step checkoff list similar to those in sushi bars for maximum efficiency in ordering. It's a good thing, too, because the choices are wide, starting with type of meat, not just the expected beef but turkey, chicken and veggie.
In addition to no less than 10 cheeses, toppings include everything from roasted corn and black-bean salsa to dried cranberries, grilled pineapple, roasted chilis and hard-boiled and fried eggs. And there's a choice of bun or a lettuce bowl.
Don't miss the fried onion strings -- crisp little frizzles of thinly sliced onion that can top a burger or be ordered as a sharable appetizer.
The menu is rounded out with some reasonably priced top sirloin steaks ($15.99). Only the New York strip and stuffed filet mignon exceed the $20 mark.
This is a friendly spot with a solid American menu that is aimed at down-to-earth tastes.
Ron Rea plans to add a few more finishing touches to the in-progress renovation. But you can be sure they won't interfere with the basic quality of this comfortably unpretentious place.
You can reach Molly Abraham at (313) 222-1475 or abraham67@comcast.net">abraham67@comcast.net.
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