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May 14, 2009 at 11:27 am

Wine competitions tell the real story of quality

A sea of glasses to select best dry red wine await Mike Dunne, right, retired wine writer at the Sacramento Bee, and heralded winemaker Carol Shelton of Carol Shelton Wines in Sonoma County, Calif. (Sandra Silfven / The Detroit News)

Big wine competitions -- as opposed to big glossy wine magazines -- provide wine evaluations based on the worthiness of what's in the bottle -- not on the label or who advertises.

Wine judges at the big international events never know whose wine they are tasting. There's no chance of being swayed by a particular producer or its reputation. And at competitions that do not sort wines by price, the results can get interesting. A delicious Two-Buck Chuck can compete shoulder-to-shoulder with the high-rent stuff.

And oh, by the way, you'll seldom read about the results of wine competitions in wine magazines -- they would compete with the mag's own wine ratings.

At the Riverside International Wine Competition in Riverside, Calif., May 2-3, price was not a consideration. It's a unique event considering its age, 28 years; its organizer, the feisty and demanding wine journalist Dan Berger; and the judges, an elite team handpicked by Berger -- a who's who of winemakers, writers, sommeliers and educators.

There's no blood on the judging tables at the end of the day, but as a participant, I can tell you all the bad stuff is weeded out.

This year's list of gold medal winners, announced recently at www.riversidewinecompetition.com, included six Michigan wines -- and that's a feat.

The competition had 1,770 entries. Judges of interest included Gary Eberle of Eberle Winery in Paso Robles; pioneering winemaker Dr. Richard Peterson, who helped shape the California industry; Riesling and Zinfandel pro Scott Harvey of Scott Harvey Wines; ex-Penfolds winemaker Daryl Groom of Groom Wines; and Eric Miller of Pennsylvania's Chaddsford, a leading winery in the East.

Here are the Michigan golds and a few of the more curious winners.

  • From Michigan: Bell Lago Pinot Grigio-Chardonnay 2007, $11.99; Black Star Farms Arcturos Riesling 2008, $16.50; Chateau Grand Traverse Whole Cluster Riesling 2007, $12; Circa Estate Winery Chardonnay 2007, $18 (Circa, in Lake Leelanau, opened this spring); Peninsula Cellars Dry Riesling 2007, $14.99; St. Julian "St. J" Pinot Grigio 2008, $9.99.

  • Low-cost, surprise winners available locally: Domaine Ste. Michelle Extra Dry Sparkling Wine, $13; Sutter Home Zinfandel 2007, $4; Meridian Pinot Grigio 2007, $10; Black Opal Chardonnay 2007, $8; Bogle Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc 2007, $9; Target Wine Cube Merlot 2007 (box wine), $15.99.

    Wine ssilfven@detnews.com">ssilfven@detnews.com (313) 222-2440

  • Daryl Groom (Sandra Silfven / The Detroit News)

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