Piece together a funky hat from scraps of other fabric or start from scratch. (Clarence Tabb Jr. / The Detroit News)
If you happened to have seen the “Maxi Capri Pants Skirt” featured here Jan. 3, you may recall mention of my having just enough scraps left (from the three pairs of capri camouflage pants) to piece together a funky hat. Well, here it is, complete with one of the original pants pockets as an unexpected side embellishment. After digging through my stash, I found the perfect brass button to adorn the pocket.
I’d made a similar hat some time ago out of mudcloth, but failed to write the instructions down. So in making this one, I had to start from scratch, but I think it was well worth it, because now, I can simply refer to the pattern for making other hats, using a range of fabrics — denim, leather, upholstery, etc.
I think what makes this hat different from similar ones is the hidden quilted band that gives it more structure and dimension to flatter and “frame” the face of the person wearing it.
Cotton Twill Hat
Estimated time: 6 hours
Tools: Sewing machine, iron, ironing board, measuring tape, sewing needle, yard stick, T-pins, scissors, 10-inch square piece of cardboard, ink pen
Supplies: ½ yard cotton twill fabric (or any medium weight fabric) ½ yard lining fabric, ¼ yard quilted fabric, thread, choice of embellishments
Size: Average (fits about a 22- to 22½-inch size head)
Note: All seam allowances should be ¼-inch, unless otherwise noted.
1. Draw round template, measuring 8½ inches in diameter, onto cardboard. Cut out and set aside.
2. Cut piece of hat and lining fabric, measuring 7 by 25 inches each.
3. Use template to draw circle (crown) on remaining pieces of hat and lining fabrics. Cut both out.
4. For hidden band, cut a 3- by 26-inch strip from quilted fabric.
5. Fold strip in half length-wise twice and pin together. Whip-stitch close. Then whip-stitch ends together with ½-inch overlap, so band measures 25 inches around. (Note: finished fit of hat will measure less.)
6. Now, with right sides facing, sew short ends of hat fabric together. Repeat for lining fabric. Press seams open.
7. With right sides facing, and seams evenly aligned, pin hat and lining fabric together around one end. (This will be bottom edge of band.) Stitch completely around.
8. Turn bands right side out and pull lining half-inch from seam all the way around. Press a crease all the way around. (This prevents edge of lining from showing when wearing hat.) Then, cut off the half inch of lining around top.
9. Now, fit quilted band between hat and lining, pushing it snug against pressed crease.
10. Slide hat under presser foot so open end is beneath arm of sewing machine. Stitch around, making sure band is centered with and snug against pressed crease at bottom edge of band. (This will take a bit of maneuvering.)
11. Turn hat inside out. With right sides facing, pin hat fabric circle (crown) around band of hat fabric only. Sew in place, leaving ¼-inch seam allowance, making sure not to catch lining. Press seam open.
12. Now, press 1⁄8-inch fold around lining band down toward inside hat.
13. Then, press ¼ inch around lining circle (crown) and neatly pin around pressed fold of band lining with raw edges hidden. Sew together with about 1⁄8-inch seam allowance. (Note: this tiny raised seam will be visible inside hat.) Turn hat right side out, position lining and steam press.
14. Add embellishments.
Detroit News Staff Writer Jocelynn Brown is a longtime Metro Detroit crafter. For more news and giveaways, visit her blog at detroitnews.com/crafts. You can reach her at (313) 222-2150.