The new Wicked Table makes the most of its location in a nondescript strip of shops in the far reaches of Farmington Hills. Restaurateur Penny White is the culinary spark, husband Tom the hammer-and-nails sidekick who rehabbed the space nicely, with the small bar on one side and an open dining room on the other.
Rich accent colors of green and blue and some interesting artwork (more about that later) warm up the white-walled space and so do the impressive crowds that have come to see what the Whites have accomplished in the seven-week old restaurant.
The Wicked part? Tom White says, in his Scottish accent, because the food is "wickedly good."
For those unfamiliar with the name, Penny White, who has a master's degree in hotel and restaurant management from Eastern Michigan University and also taught there, as well as at Schoolcraft College, is the founder of the popular Breakfast Club restaurants — one of which is at the other end of the same strip mall.
Now she and chef Kirk McKinney have taken on the rest of the day with a list of American dishes, some with international touches that might surprise Breakfast Club regulars. For instance, the North African sauce called charmoula made with cilantro, garlic, lemon juice and parsley and served with the lamb burger, along with the better-known tzatziki, the Greek cucumber and yogurt sauce, and the Moroccan noodle salad in citrus vinaigrette.
Both lunch and dinner menus are nicely varied, and aside from the side dish of sauteed kale and another of Brussels sprouts — there they are again — White doesn't try to follow the latest fads. And that's a plus.
Another definite plus is the price structure. Nothing on the menu ascends to $25, including the excellent steak frites topped with a compound butter ($12 at lunch, $17 at dinner) and the duo of tournedos, one with Bordelaise sauce, the other with bearnaise, and both with portobello mushrooms ($22).
British style fish and chips are served with lemon/caper aoili and are on both menus.
In the early going, the most popular dish of all seems to be the classic all-American chicken pot pie topped with puff pastry and a scattering of micro-greens.
You would certainly expect some appealing desserts from the Breakfast Club founder who has a fine hand with jumbo cinnamon rolls and other sweets. Here, the array includes lemon icebox pie and apple crisp with salted caramel
About the aforementioned artworks: the two pieces that get the most compliments are a pair of hangings picked up at Pier One. The other, a very expensive piece of original art, a colorful construction by a California artist, not so much. And isn't that always the way?
38503 W. 10 Mile,
Call: (248) 474-7777
Hours: lunch 10:30 a.m.-3 p.m., dinner 5-9 p.m., bar menu 9-11 p.m. Mon.-Sat.
Prices: Appetizers and small plates $4-$12, lunch sandwiches and entrees $8-$12, soups and salads $6-$12, dinner entrees $11-$22, desserts $5-$7
Credit cards: All major
Liquor: Full bar
Noise level: High
Parking: Attached lot