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The intriguing name Wine Dotte Bistro got me on the road to the downriver city of Wyandotte last week. It’s an historic area, founded as a village in 1854 and named for the Native American tribe. Its river location is its prime asset, and the latest to take advantage of it from a culinary standpoint is the wine bar/restaurant.

In addition to its nice little play on words, Wine Dotte offers a view of the water, along with a wine-centric menu. Outdoor seating under umbrellas on the patio adds to its appeal.

Rather than the casual setting a waterfront location often suggests, proprietors Karen and Karl Goreta chose to give their spot a touch of glamour, and they did it with a silver, black and gray-blue color scheme that reflects the sparkle of crystal chandeliers along with the shiny metal of exposed ductwork in the single room seating just 65. To go along with the unexpected decor, it offers a menu that also includes more than what would be expected.

The Goretas, newcomers to the restaurant scene, chose a list of time-tested restaurant classics, and put it in the hands of David Wood. He has his work cut out for him at Wine Dotte, because the list is extensive, including everything from shrimp scampi and French-cut lamb chops to tenderloin medallions and lobster tails. There is some emphasis on fresh seafood, typified by stuffed flounder, sea bass and salmon entrees.

And the energetic Wood also makes many of the desserts, including crème brulee and carrot cake.

The price of entrées is all-inclusive, with a choice of soup or salad, as well as vegetables and potato, and there is a la carte ordering, as well.

Wine is emphasized, of course, and it is nicely displayed in a cabinet along one wall. The list is international, with some emphasis on Michigan and West Coast wines, in an affordable price range. Wines by the glass are $6-$12, with bottles $20-$130, the latter for Veuve Clicquot champagne.

For those who live in the Metro area, there is very much of a sense of being away from it all when relaxing at this riverside spot, especially on the 32-seat patio.

Not yet a year old, Wine Dotte Bistro is still feeling its way, of course.

Currently, getting there from Detroit is a little tricky because of the construction on I-75 south. Taking Southfield Road south to Jefferson, which becomes Biddle in Wyandotte, is one way of avoiding tie-ups. Better yet, use MapQuest.

Wine Dotte Bistro

2910 Van Alstyne at Oak Street, Wyandotte

Call: (734) 556-3195

Rating:★★1/2 stars

Hours: noon-10 p.m. Tues.-Thurs., noon-midnight Fri.-Sat., brunch 11 a.m.-5 p.m. Sun.

Prices: Appetizers $6-$15, salads $6-$12, sandwiches $7-$12, entrees $17-$33, desserts $6

Credit cards: All major

Liquor: Full bar, with emphasis on wine

Noise level: Moderate

Parking: Street and no-charge lot.

Wheelchair access: No barriers

What the ratings mean

★ — routine ★★ — good ★★ 1/2 — very good ★★★ — excellent ★★★★ — outstanding

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