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You don’t have to ask what the specialty is at the restaurant that anchors a strip mall at Van Dyke at 22 Mile Road in Shelby Township. It’s right there on the façade of the handsome building — steak house.

The name — Nick’s 22nd Street Steak House — has a New York ring to it that 22 Mile Road can’t achieve, so that’s what the late Nick Andreopoulos and his three sons decided to name it when they opened in 1998. Now it’s the sons who run it, with Harry in the kitchen, Bill running the front of the house, and George the bar manager.

My search for an affordable steakhouse had been going on for a few weeks, after perusing the price structure at the upscale steak places around town and getting sticker shock. Fifty-five-dollar a la carte steaks were not what I was looking for. There must be, I thought, a place that serves more reasonably priced red meat.

Nick’s, while undeniably lacking the bells and whistles and slick service of the upscale steak places, certainly can satisfy the taste for red meat in its more casual atmosphere with friendly servers. Trophies from Nick’s hunting trips, and antique farm implements and lanterns, bare-topped wood tables — but quality linen napkins — and a setting that has a northern Michigan spin define the place.

Angus choice steaks are available at lunch and dinner, at the same prices, but of course the big cuts are served to many more tables at dinnertime. And they come with accompaniments of soup or salad and vegetable at the same price. Caesar salad is an option, but judging from a lackluster version of the classic, diners are better off choosing the fresh mixed greens. Vegetables, notably the al dente broccoli, are nicely done.

Steaks range from the 6-ounce filet mignon at $20.99 (9 ounce is $26.99), to the top of the line, Chateaubriand for two at $68.

The family’s Greek heritage shows up in lamb chops, served in multiples of three and five at $23.99 and $35.99, respectively. I am emphasizing prices because the Andreopolos brothers seem genuinely determined to give their patrons a fair shake.

Don’t expect the Capital Grille, or Ruth’s Chris Steak House — and you will enjoy Nick’s.

abraham67@comcast.net

Nick’s 22nd Street

Steak House

48900 Van Dyke and 22 Mile Road, Shelby Township

Call: (586) 731-3900

Web: 22ndstreetsteakhouse.com

Rating:★★1/2

Hours: 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Mon.-Thurs., 11 a.m.-11 p.m. Fri., noon-11 p.m. Sat., noon-9 p.m. Sun.

Prices: Lunch $7.99-$28 (the latter for a sharable platter serving two or three), sandwiches $7.29-$10.50, salads $7.99-$13.99, entrees $7.99-$13.99, dinner entrees $12.99-$18.99, steaks $16.99-$64 (the latter for chateaubriand for two).

Credit cards: All major

Liquor: Full bar

Noise level: Moderate

Parking: Attached lot

Wheelchair access: No barriers

What the ratings mean

★ — routine ★★ — good ★★ 1/2 — very good

★★★ — excellent ★★★★ — outstanding

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