Review: Stage Deli puts on a delectable show
Glamorous deli might sound like an oxymoron. But in the case of this particular delicatessen, it rings true. A plush setting in black and white with touches of blue in a room defined by an artist’s rendering of famous Hollywood and Broadway faces is the backdrop for a classic deli menu.
It is notable not just for its sleek decor, of course. The dishes served by the Goldbergs — Steve and his son and daughter, Ian and Jolie, the second and third generation of the late founder, Jack Goldberg — carry on the family tradition which began in 1962 when Jack Goldberg opened Stage & Company in Oak Park.
The show-biz theme was in deference to the nearby Northland Playhouse. Many of the well-known actors who appeared there dined at the Stage and put it on the map.
It moved to West Bloomfield in 1982 into expanded dimensions and its style and ambitious menu carry on. It’s a lengthy list and that sometimes means there are also-rans included with house specials. I can’t guarantee you’ll love every item — I’m not crazy about the corned beef and chopped liver sandwich, for instance — but that’s a matter of personal taste.
Sandwiches here are generous and the rye bread is notable. Have some bread even if you are not having a sandwich. Bread baskets come with soups and there are no less than 10 choices every day, from mushroom barley to matzoh ball, and for the adventurous, one called mish-mash, a combination of several varieties in a big pot ($14).
In addition to soups and sandwiches, there are full-scale entrees, including broiled whitefish, roasted beef brisket and roasted turkey.
Seating arrangements include tables and cozy booths along the window. The to-go counter is completely separate from the dining room, which allows for a more comfortable experience. And while the Stage serves a selection of beer, wine and liquor, there is no sit-down bar.
At prime times, service can be spotty, but the staff is friendly and accommodating.
Serving all three meals is a daunting schedule, but the Stage manages to pull it off.
(There is a small satellite at the Somerset Collection North in Troy).
The Stage Deli
6873 Orchard Lake Road, West Bloomfield
Hours: 10 a.m.-9 p.m. Mon.-Thurs.; 10 a.m.-10 p.m. Fri.; 9 a.m.-10 p.m. Sat.; 9 a.m.-9 p.m. Sun.
Prices: Breakfast entrees $8-$16, sides $4-$9; lunch and dinner appetizers $8-$12, soups $4-$10, salads $14-$18, sandwiches $12-$17, smoked fish plates and platters $16-$20, sides $4-$6, desserts $3-$7.
Liquor: Yes, limited offerings of beer, wine and liquor, but no sit-down bar
Noise level: Moderate
Wheelchair access: No barriers
Parking: Attached lot in Boardwalk shopping strip
What the ratings mean
★ — routine ★★ — good ★★ 1/2 — very good
★★★ — excellent
★★★★ — outstanding