Review: Beverly Hills Grill shines with seasonal dishes

At the ripe old age of 30, the Beverly Hills Grill isn’t slowing down. The Grill, as regulars call it, reached that milestone in March, but it still retains the glow of youth.

That’s probably because it has never tried to be cutting edge. It is unassuming and comfortable, offering well-prepared seasonal dishes from an American perspective, as it has from day one, served in an uncluttered contemporary room, at breakfast, lunch and dinner.

You may rest assured that whenever you’d like to stop by, it will be open. The only days off are the six major holidays. That’s a daunting schedule that few restaurants, especially of this caliber, attempt.

The many-windowed space, including an eight-seat bar, accommodates just 80, and as proprietor Bill Roberts once said, “There’s a charm about being full.” There’s also a charm about its reasonable size and unpretentious spirit.

Some dishes have become classics, and they include bananas Foster French toast sparked with candied pecans, Kobe beef meatloaf and jumbo lump crab cakes, the latter in appetizer and main course size, all available every day. Executive chef Ryan Zagor varies the menu with chalkboard specials every day, and that keeps the menu fresh and the regulars happy.

Such dishes as sauteed rainbow trout, shrimp linguine, salmon burgers and black bean chili typify the well-balanced menu that carries through the theme with such desserts as pot de crème, angelfood cake and cobbler a la mode, nicely served by a well-trained staff..

This restaurant doesn’t try too hard to impress, but is comfortable in its own skin.

abraham67@comcast.net

Beverly Hills Grill

31471 Southfield, between 13 and 14 Mile Roads, Beverly Hills

Call: (248) 642-2355

Web: beverlyhillsgrill.com

Rating: ★★★★

Hours: 7 a.m.-11 p.m. Mon.-Thurs., 7 a.m.-midnight Fri., 8 a.m.-midnight Sat., 8 a.m-10 p.m. Sun.

Prices: Breakfast dishes $11-$18, appetizers $5-$13, lunch sandwiches and salads $11-$20, entrees $13-$18; dinner entrees $17-$28, desserts $6-$8.

Credit cards: All major

Liquor: Full bar

Noise level: Medium high

Parking: Attached lot

Wheelchair access: No barriers.

What the ratings mean

★ — routine ★★ — good ★★ 1/2 — very good

★★★ — excellent ★★★★ — outstanding