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It’s unabashedly unsophisticated with its exuberant folk art and its costumed waitstaff. That’s one of the things that’s so refreshing about this new Polish restaurant.

The spacious spot adds another slice of Poland to the corner of Dequindre and East Maple roads in Troy, where Marek and Danuca Kolynica’s Polish Market has been a popular destination for years.

   The couple added the restaurant to their holdings this spring, and it has gotten an equally warm welcome. Good thing, too, because it seats more than 250  in its series of dining rooms.

  And while the menu is predominately Polish, from pierogis and stuffed cabbage to fresh and smoked kielbasa, there are some options, including the obligatory burger and fries, and fish and chips, served on blue-and-white patterned plates to the nicely spaced tables for those too timid to get with the program.

    Despite its size, the space is broken up nicely, with seating arrangements from a balcony-like perch to small areas walled off with woodwork and glass into mini cottages. The central bar is dominated by stunning murals by Andrzej Sikora.

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  In the early going, the two most popular entrees are chicken schnitzel and the Polka combo, which brings a cross-section of classics to the tables. It includes two kinds of kielbasa, sauerkraut, mashed potatoes – which come with practically everything, by the way - and three pierogis chosen from a list of seven varieties. In addition to fillings of mushrooms, spinach and cheese, and pork and beef, are fruit-filled morsels that add a sweet profile.

     The dish is large enough for two to share, especially if preceded by one of the four available soups, with the potato soup known as dill pickle soup heading the list. The food is very well-prepared by the kitchen headed by executive chef Ramses Romero, and though some diners have been heard to say “Not as good as my grandmother’s,” it’s probably pure nostalgia talking. Service by the well-trained staff is helpful and courteous.

  Desserts include mini-paczki – the perfect size for these filled doughnuts.

 abraham67@comcast.net

 

Polka Restaurant & Beer Café

2908 E. Maple Road, Troy

(248) 817-2601

Rating: ★★★ — excellent 

Hours: 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Tues.-Sun. Closed Mon.

Prices: Appetizers $8-$12, soups $3-$7, salads $6-$11, sandwiches $8-$11, sides $4, entrees $11-$21, desserts $5-$7.

Credit cards: All major

Liquor: Full bar, with many Polish vodkas and beers available.

Noise level: Moderate

Wheelchair access: No barriers

Parking: Attached lot

What the ratings mean

★ — routine ★★ — good ★★ 1/2 — very good

★★★ — excellent ★★★★ — outstanding

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