Berry-blasted July 4 trifle
The Fourth of July, Independence Day, is here — the high point of the year for sparklers, corn on the cob, and blueberry-strawberry desserts. Whatever would we do without blueberries and strawberries on July 4? How else would we make our flag cakes and patriotic fruit pinwheels? But as I thought about what dessert to make this year, I was inspired by the fact that red and blue fruits extend beyond our ubiquitous berry friends. And for the Fourth of July I want to enjoy ripe summer fruit as much as possible.
So here is a trifle for your holiday that is really more fruit than cake, with cherries, raspberries and blackberries squeezed between homemade pudding and cream, meant to be eaten outside in the sunshine, before dips in the pool and runs through the sprinkler.
Trifles belie their name; they’re the very opposite of an insignificant dessert. A trifle is meant to be bountiful and generous, able to feed an army of picnickers. This one is no different.
Trifles should also take some time. Yes, you can slap leftover cake and cream and fruit together in a big delicious pile, but a true trifle (in my humble opinion) should involve homemade custard and a slow, methodical building of the layers. It’s going to feed a lot of people, after all, so a little extra time spent in assembly will pay off. It also makes for a more beautiful trifle; if you want discrete layers, it’s best to let at least the bottom layer set for an hour or two in the refrigerator to firm up before piling on the rest of the goodies.
This trifle has all the things that I, in my own opinionated way, consider best in this dessert. I use angel food cake, which is light and soft in the pudding. It is more delicate though, so this trifle should be assembled no more than 24 hours before serving (otherwise it gets too soggy for my taste). It also has homemade custard, adapted from my book, “Bakeless Sweets.” It’s not a very sweet pudding, and it’s enriched with a little extra cornstarch to help it hold up the layers. In fact, this whole trifle is not very sweet, despite its richness. Most of its tart sweetness comes from the berries.
This is the time for sweet, fresh berries. It shouldn’t be difficult to find bright, fresh fruit bursting with flavor from your local store or farmers market.
This is a dessert meant to be shared wholeheartedly. And since I can’t think of anything more patriotic than the act of sharing with one another, it’s my Fourth of July dessert pick. The sparklers are optional, but highly recommended.
Faith Durand is executive editor of TheKitchn.com, a nationally known blog for people who love food and home cooking. Submit any comments or questions to email@example.com.
Red, White and Blue Trifle
For the vanilla pudding (makes 7 to 8 cups)
1/2 cup cornstarch
1/2 teaspoon salt
2 cups light or heavy cream
4 large egg yolks
4 cups 2 percent milk
1/2 cup sugar
2 teaspoons pure vanilla extract
For the trifle
18 ounces angel food cake, cut into 1 1/2-inch cubes (about 8 cups)
2 pounds strawberries, divided
10 ounces (2 cups) cherries, pitted and halved
6 ounces (2 cups) raspberries
3 pounds (4 pints) blueberries, divided
6 ounces (2 cups) blackberries, sliced in half lengthwise
16 ounces cream cheese, at room temperature
2 cups heavy cream
1/4 cup powdered sugar
Zest of 1 lemon
Make the vanilla pudding
Whisk the cornstarch and salt together in a 1-quart mixing bowl.
Slowly whisk in the cream, making sure there are no lumps.
Whisk in the egg yolks. It is important that this mix be very smooth.
Warm the milk with the sugar over medium heat in a 3-quart saucepan until bubbles form around the edge of the milk and the entire surface of the milk begins to vibrate. Turn off the heat.
Pour 1 cup of the hot milk mixture into the bowl with the cornstarch and egg yolks. Whisk vigorously to combine. They should come together smoothly, with no lumps. If you see any lumps, add a little more liquid and whisk them out.
Pour the combined mixture back into the pot slowly, whisking constantly. Turn the heat back on to medium and bring to a simmer while still whisking. The custard will come to a boil with large bubbles that slowly pop up to the surface. Boil, whisking continuously, for 2 minutes. Turn off the heat. Stir in the vanilla extract.
Begin assembling the trifle
Pack half of the angel food cake into the bottom of a large glass bowl. The bowl should hold 20 to 24 cups (160 to 192 fluid ounces).
Immediately pour half of the warm pudding over the cake. Press plastic wrap or buttered wax paper onto the surface and refrigerate for at least 1 hour or until chilled.
Pour the remaining pudding into a shallow dish and press plastic wrap or buttered wax paper onto its surface. Refrigerate for at least 1 hour, or until firm enough to be spooned out of the dish.
While the first layer of trifle and the pudding are chilling, prepare the fruit.
For the red fruit: Hull and quarter 1 pound of the strawberries and mix with the cherries and raspberries. Refrigerate. Reserve remaining strawberries for topping the trifle.
For the blue fruit: Lightly mash 2 cups of the blueberries just until they release their juices. Stir in 2 more cups of blueberries and the blackberries. Refrigerate. Reserve the remaining blueberries for topping the trifle.
Whip the cream cheese with beaters or in the bowl of a stand mixer until light and fluffy. Gradually add the cream, whipping until smooth, and continue whipping until it forms soft peaks. Whip in the powdered sugar and lemon zest.
To finish assembling the trifle, drain off any juices that have collected in the bottom of the fruit bowls. Remove the plastic wrap from the trifle and spread the red fruit over the base layer of cake and pudding. Top gently with the whipped cream, then with the remaining cake cubes.
Whip the remaining vanilla pudding until creamy, and spread over the cake cubes. Top with the blue fruit mixture, then with a final layer of the whipped cream.
To finish the trifle, hull and slice the remaining 16 ounces of strawberries. Arrange the remaining strawberries and blueberries on top of the trifle. Refrigerate uncovered for at least 2 hours or up to 24 hours before serving. Serves 12.
Per serving: 701 calories; 40 g fat (23 g saturated fat; 51 percent calories from fat); 79 g carbohydrates; 51 g sugar; 191 mg cholesterol; 628 mg sodium; 12 g protein; 8 g fiber